Buying guide · Craft & making

Chainmaille pliers for beginners
Buy two that suit the rings.

For a first pair, buy two identical smooth-jaw flat or short-nose pliers. The £12 Speedwox setup is enough to try the craft; two Xuron 475s are the better-balanced buy for aluminium and small decorative rings; two Knipex 35 12 115s cost more for wider jaws, a box joint and tougher-ring headroom.

Three pairs of smooth-jaw jewellery pliers with green, blue and red-and-blue handles arranged on a navy work mat with aluminium jump rings and a small chainmaille sample
First purchaseTwo identical smooth-jaw pliers
Best-value setupTwo Xuron 475s · about £42
Start withBright aluminium, not heavy stainless
AvoidSerrated jaws and round-nose pliers

Which chainmaille pliers should a beginner buy?

Buy two of the same smooth-jaw flat- or short-nose model. Matching pliers remove one variable while you learn to twist rings open and closed without pulling them out of shape.

Choose by commitment and material
  1. 01

    Spend about £12 on two Speedwox flat-nose pliers only if you are testing the hobby and are willing to inspect both jaws closely on arrival.

  2. 02

    Spend about £42 on two Xuron 475s for the most sensible first setup for bright aluminium, coloured aluminium and small jewellery-scale rings.

  3. 03

    Spend about £80 on two Knipex 35 12 115s when you already expect to use firmer rings, want wider jaws and value a precise box joint enough to carry the extra cost.

What spending more actually changes

Price matters less than jaw condition, ring material and how the handles fit your hands. The tiers are still meaningful because joint construction and jaw geometry change as you move up.

01

Entry: inspect before weaving

The Speedwox pair has smooth faces, a return spring and useful short jaws for very little money. UK owner feedback also reports burrs, uneven halves and jaws that do not meet, so quality control is the compromise.

02

Mid-range: the easy default

The Xuron 475 is light, short-nosed and purpose-designed for opening and closing jump rings. Its narrow head improves access but concentrates pressure, so it is less suitable as rings become thicker or harder.

03

Premium: precision and jaw area

The Knipex adds a backlash-free box joint, wider smooth jaws and multi-component grips. That improves control on firmer rings, but the bigger head can be clumsy inside tight weaves and the pair costs roughly twice the Xuron setup.

How we chose beginner chainmaille pliers

We looked for smooth gripping faces, short or flat jaws, a return spring, a comfortable handle and an exact Amazon UK listing. Manufacturer specifications established dimensions and joint design; specialist comparisons and professional user reports supplied ring-size and durability context; several chainmaille-community discussions exposed recurring comfort, slippage and finishing patterns. Amazon owner reviews were used as a fault-pattern check, not as proof of performance.

Two identical pliers are the clearest first purchase. One straight and one bent or chisel-nose plier can be excellent after you know your preferred hand position, but it complicates a beginner comparison and the result is personal. The Xuron 486 bent nose and 487 chisel nose were considered as second-tool alternatives; generic multi-tool jewellery kits were rejected because they commonly include cutters, round-nose or serrated-jaw tools instead of two suitable gripping pliers. Maun parallel pliers, Wubbers, Lindström and Tronex options lacked a sufficiently reliable exact Amazon UK listing at the time of checking, or were excessive for this first-pair brief.

Protect the rings, pliers and your hands

A smooth jaw prevents tooth marks, but it does not make every plier safe for every ring. Technique and material still set the load.

  • Check that both jaws meet evenly and have no burrs or sharp corners before the first ring. Return a badly finished new tool rather than trying to rescue it after it has marked a project.
  • Open jump rings by twisting the ends past each other, not pulling them apart sideways. Use as much jaw surface as the weave allows and keep fingers out of the closing path.
  • Stop if a ring repeatedly slips, the handles bite into your hand or the joint visibly flexes. A larger or wider-jaw tool is safer than forcing a compact jewellery plier.
  • Gauge labels are not universal: 16 AWG and 16 SWG are different diameters. Match the actual wire diameter, metal and ring size to the tool, especially for stainless steel.
  • Knipex specifies an oil film as corrosion protection for its mirror-polished head. Wipe the jaws clean and renew a light protective film as needed, keeping oil away from the ring gripping faces during use.

Sources and checking notes

Specifications come from makers and exact product pages; selection and cautions are cross-checked against specialist comparisons, professional experience and repeated owner-community reports.

  1. 01 The Hobby Library · Chainmail Making for Beginners

    Directly relevant beginner guide recommending two smooth-jaw pliers and a first bright-aluminium European 4-in-1 swatch; it also identifies the Xuron 475 as a later comfort upgrade.

    Open source
  2. 02 Xuron · Essential chainmaille pliers

    Manufacturer guidance on using two pliers and on the short, flat, smooth-jaw design and intended jump-ring role of the Model 475.

    Open source
  3. 03 Knipex · Electronics Pliers 35 12 115

    Manufacturer dimensions, 70 g weight, 22.5 mm jaw length, 2.0 mm tip width, smooth flat-wide gripping surfaces, box joint, double spring and corrosion-care information.

    Open source
  4. 04 The Ring Lord · Selecting pliers

    Specialist comparison of jaw shapes and wire-size limits; rates the Knipex 35 12 115 as a durable smooth-jaw wide-nose tool and the Xuron 475 as a fine, narrow option for small rings.

    Open source
  5. 05 Metal Designz · Pliers: the good, the bad and the awesome

    Experienced professional chainmaille retailer's long-use comparison: smooth action and beginner control for Xuron, with the narrow head becoming a limitation on thicker rings.

    Open source
  6. 06 Blue Buddha Boutique · Pliers for chainmaille beginners

    Specialist beginner advice supporting two flat-nose pliers with smooth, ungrooved jaws as the uncomplicated starting format.

    Open source
  7. 07 r/chainmailartisans · Any tips in what tools to use?

    Owner discussion recurring across other threads: Xuron is a strong default, Speedwox is a workable budget route, and budget jaws may need edge inspection before use.

    Open source
  8. 08 r/chainmailartisans · Beginner pieces and tool upgrade question

    Recent owner pattern on Xuron comfort and small-ring control, Knipex durability and stronger-material use, plus the limitation of narrow handles for some hands.

    Open source
  9. 09 r/chainmailartisans · Tools for anodised aluminium

    Community evidence for smooth-faced pliers on coloured aluminium and repeated Speedwox/Xuron use, with explicit warnings to check sharp edges and choose for personal hand fit.

    Open source
  10. 10 Amazon UK · Speedwox 5-Inch Duck Bill Fine Pliers

    Exact ASIN checked live: Flat Nose Pliers option at £5.99 each, sold by Speedwox and dispatched by Amazon, with four shown in stock. Product page states 122 × 47 × 9.2 mm, 67 g, smooth jaws and a double-leaf spring; UK reviews repeatedly flag occasional burrs and jaw misalignment.

    Open source
  11. 11 Amazon UK · Xuron 475 Xuro Grip Short Nose Plier

    Exact ASIN checked live at £21.18 each and shown in stock. UK owner reviews repeatedly mention comfortable grip, short-jaw control and suitability for opening and closing small jump rings.

    Open source
  12. 12 Amazon UK · Knipex Electronics Pliers 35 12 115

    Exact ASIN checked live at £40.20 each with an active delivery offer and add-to-basket option. Listing confirms the 115 mm model, mirror-polished head and multi-component grips; owner feedback is strongly positive on precision but includes a material rust warning.

    Open source

Guide information and links checked 14 September 2026.

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